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 »  Home  »  clothing  »  Leather and the environment
Leather and the environment
By Green Living Tips | Published  04/10/2009 | clothing
Leather and environmental issues
I'm sitting here in my leather office chair and in my leather workboots with my leather wallet in my back pocket - comfy chair, Internet, comfy boots; what more could a guy want aside from a never-ending pizza?

I started thinking more about leather the other day after seeing the most horrible video of an animal that was skinned alive for the fur/skin trade.

I can't relay in mere words how horrific it was to see this animal after the process - the poor creature seemed fully conscious and the look on its face was just incredibly heartbreaking. Without its skin, I couldn't even recognize what sort of animal it was. It looked so forlorn, confused and in so much pain, I nearly cried.

It's incidents like these that really make me question the concept of we humans as evolved and "superior" beings.

The practices of some in the fur and skin trade have gained a lot of media coverage to the point that wearing of fur as a fashion statement is generally frowned upon these days.

Leather is another story -  I guess that most of us like to think that the leather goods we buy - shoes, furnishing, clothing, bags etc. - have come from animals that have been humanely slaughtered and that the leather is more of a by-product rather than the focus; i.e. from animals used for meat.

Even if that is the case, and the term "humane" when it comes to slaughter is subject to a lot of controversy, what about the other environmental impacts from our desire for leather?

Leather's chemical cocktail

As leather is basically just skin, the base component (rawhide) is fully biodegradable. Without some form of treatment, known as tanning, it would simply fall apart.

Back in the old, old days, smoke was often used to cure leather as were vegetable tannins, salt, urine and animal faeces or animal brains - it was a rather smelly and messy affair, so most tanneries were situated outside towns.

These days, here's how most tanning occurs:

- Hides are first prepared by by curing them with salt

- The hides are then soaked in clean water to remove the salt

- The hides are treated with one or more of the following as part of the de-hairing process:

* Sodium sulfide
* Sodium hydroxide
* Sodium hydrosulfite
* Arsenic sulfide
* Calcium hydrosulfide
* Dimethyl amine
* Sodium sulphydrate

- Once the hair is removed, the hides are then treated with a mixture salt and sulphuric acid if mineral tanning is to be done.

- The hides are soaked in water once again and biocides such as pentachlorophenol may be used to prevent bacterial growth.

- Tanning can be performed, and usually this is via mineral methods that uses chromium in the form of basic chromium sulfate

Modern tanning is still a messy and smelly affair with a ton of extra energy, water and toxic chemicals thrown in. The process is so toxic that many old tannery sites cannot be used for agriculture. Tanneries not only often poison the land they are situated on, but also the waterways into which they discharge effluent.

Given all that, I'm left wondering if modern leather tanning processes are just as environmentally damaging as some of the plastics we use in clothing and furnishings such as polyester and nylon.

Imported leather

But surely if the toxicity of the process is well known, our governments have taken steps to address it, right? Yes, that's often the case in places like the USA, Australia, Canada and the UK - but here's a quote in regards to a tannery in Australia fined for environmental issues that sums up where the problem lies:

"...told the court the business would not operate as a tannery in the future, but would move to importing sheepskins"

Our desire for cheap leather coupled with tightening local government regulations is not solving the problem, but simply moving the environmental issues overseas to countries where controls are more lax - not only on the pollution side of things, but in relation to animal welfare.

So, even if the boots or coat you buy says "Made in Australia" or "Made in the USA"; there's a very real possibility that the actual leather used in the product was imported from overseas.

So what's a leather lover to do?

Firstly, we need to look at our consumption - do we really need 10 pairs of leather shoes, 5 wallets or 8 handbags? Every leather item you don't buy mean less toxic waste entering into the environment and perhaps an animal not killed - you'll save some cash as well.

We can also reduce our associated impact by asking companies where they source their leather - if it's outside "developed" countries, assume the worst.

Additionally, if you're prepared to spend a few more bucks, consider organic leather. Organic leather comes from animals that have been raised and slaughtered humanely and the tanning uses more environmentally friendly processes such as smoke and plant based tannins. You can find these products simply by typing: organic leather X into your favorite search engine, where X is the type of product you are wanting.

Leather alternatives

After you watch a few videos and read a bit more about the treatment of animals destined to become leather products, it does tend to work away at your conscience; but the alternatives also present a minefield for the environmentally conscious consumer.

You could just turn your back on leather altogether, but so many of our fabrics are petro-chemical based or use incredibly environmentally destructive and energy intensive processes.

This is where we need to start looking more towards organic cotton, soy, hemp, bamboo and other forms of organic clothing. Most of these are still terribly expensive and I must admit I'm guilty of leaning towards cheaper and very non-green clothes - even if I do manage to squeeze a decade out of a t-shirt :). It's a habit I'm trying to kick.

If you just love the look and feel of leather, consider pleather, which is just a slang term for synthetic leather made out of plastic; but just be aware of the associated impacts - not all pleather is created equal and some plastics will be worse than others. These range from calico coated with boiled linseed oil mixed with dryers and pigments to fabric bases coated with plastic, to 100% plastic substitutes.

Unfortunately for the leather lover - it's a case of abstinence or choosing the lesser of the environmental and humanitarian "evils"; but a reduction in impact is certainly better than taking no action at all.


 
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Michael Bloch
Green Living Tips.com
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Comments
  • Comment #1 (Posted by Mackenzie)

    The trouble I've found is that non-leather shoes just don't last. I have a friend that's vegan but wears leather boots because he's also an environmentalist anc an't justify a new pair of peather (plastic) boots every year when his leather ones will last a decade or more.

    Pleather shoes separate from their soles in about 8 months. Reliably. I've never had a pair last longer than that. Canvas shoes stay attached to the soles, but the upper falls apart in a year. Maybe a better adhesive could be found for pleather shoes to stay on their soles, but they're still made of plastic!

    So far my microfibre-upper Earth shoes have lasted 9 months, are still attached to the soles, and aren't falling apart, but microfibre is petrol-based so...

    I have:
    http://www.earthfootwear.com/ourfootwear/ourfootwearproducts/tabid/65/language/en-us/p-9-inhale.aspx
     
  • Comment #2 (Posted by Amanda)

    I have to admit that I have a pair of leather hiking boots. I bought them from a friend who wore them once, then her husband bought her another pair for some reason and she wore those instead. They're very nice, rugged, etc. Rubber soles with full leather upper and cloth inside. I don't regret them because I know I will have them for at least a decade, whereas a pair of rubber boots or such will last only a few years. I think something like this for utility (for instance, they keep my feet dry on rainy days when I have to be outside, because of the weatherproofing) is fine to have one of said item. When you weigh between the plastic or rubber that breaks down, making you buy/use more and the one pair of leather that lasts a long time, I think of it more as a lesser of the two evils. Isn't being green not only about taking care about what goes into the environment but also about not wasting? I think perhaps that more research into companies that make leather items and processes that go into making the item as well as the leather used in it should be more at stake but this is coming from someone who doesn't buy a lot of leather. My computer chair is plastic/metal/fabric and I'd never buy a leather computer chair, or even anything resembling that because I think it's too ostentatious. Now, I am guilty of buying leather from a leather store to use in crafts. With that, I can do research to see how it is done and make sure it's a humane and environmentally friendly process (or at least as environmentally friendly as can be). I think that if we can come up with some way to cure leather for use that can both be environmentally friendly and at least affordable enough for most people to buy it, leather would be something that's not so bad to use. I really do agree with you about the companies that don't kill the animal before they skin it... perhaps they should be skinned alive (I mean it, yet I don't as well). I have a friend who enjoys hunting deer and such. He kills just what he and his family would use- no more. He also used to live in a southern US state when he was younger. They were contracted to skeet shoot, as he called it. Basically, animals that were considered vermin to the farms there and such (that were on the properties)... they got $5 per kill. Now, he wouldn't do that but then, he did. He mentioned there were some people who would skeet shoot and they would pretty much torture the animals before killing them. He said he couldn't bear it and would make sure anything he had to shoot was dead on the first shot. (His father made him do it and as a kid and in the early 80's... you get the drill...) Now, we have more awareness of our surroundings. Hopefully, it's not too late for the environment but whether it is or not, we can all do our best to make things better.
     
  • Comment #3 (Posted by Samantha)

    It really hurts to hear the awful things humans can do to other living beings. I never knew animals were skinned alive, or that people can take pleasure in torturing animals. What kind of sick person could live with themselves after that?

    I live in a small town that thrives off of tourism during the summer. I would love to encourage the leather store in town to research where her skins come from, and how humane they are taken from the animal. But with today's economy, I know the owner is just barely getting by. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to help her get her resources from humane farms?
     
  • Comment #4 (Posted by Katie)

    Putting aside my reservations about the oxymoronic term "humane slaughter"(!), I think it's worth pointing out that actually the slaughtering process is broadly the same whether the animal in question was organically reared or not. Especially since they are often processed in the very same facility as non-organically raised animals. So even if organic leather might be better environmentally it doesn't make it particularly more likely to be "humane".
    Good article though, thanks. And yes about the skinning, I've seen similar footage - truly horrific.

    Oh and for shoes at least, here's some food for thought!
    http://www.barefooters.org/

    ;-)
     
  • Comment #5 (Posted by Lee)

    When leather gloves, leather shoes, leather pants, etc are tested most will not pass a toxic chemical leachate test (TCLP) that EPA requires for the determination of a hazwaste (and the result typically shows 10-20+x that allowable amount of 5ppm). It's a shame but only environmentally sensitive companies dispose of used leather products as hazwaste due to greate than 5ppm chromium (as you mentioned in the tanning process), so leather products can and do contaminate water ways, and landfills.
     
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