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 »  Home  »  garden  »  Composting tips
Composting tips
By Green Living Tips | Published  03/4/2008 | garden
The magic of compost
Compost is basically the equivalent of the good stuff in soil (humus) that sustains plant life. It helps the soil retain moisture, assists with the formation of good soil structure and provides nutrients.

So much of what we send to landfill consists of vegetation that could be used in our garden. Around 200 pounds of vegetable waste is thrown out by each family, each year. Multiple that by millions of families and that's a lot of garbage that has to be transported.

By setting up your own compost pile you'll not only be helping your garden, you'll be helping the planet in other ways.

Composting seems to be such a simple concept - throw stuff in a pile, it breaks down thanks to bacteria and other critters - but nature works some amazing and complex magic for this to happen. Nature never ceases to leave me in awe; even when it comes how it deals with its own garbage.

When we hear the term "bacteria", we often associate it with nasty stuff, but bacteria are essential to our health and the well-being of our planet. For example, without certain bacteria in our digestive system, we wouldn't be able to process food properly and would become quite ill.

There are three different groups of bacteria that are involved in the composting process and each successive group relies upon the prior in order to do their work most effectively.

Psychrophilic bacteria

These are the "starter bacteria" that go to work on cold compost. They are most active in temperatures of 55°F, but will also work down to an incredible 0°F (-17°C). As these bacteria chomp on organic materials they also generate a small amount of heat, creating an environment suitable for the next group.

Mesophilic bacteria

These work in temperatures from 70° - 90°F (approx. 15°–40°C), decomposing both vegetable and animal matter. Their exertions produce enough heat to for the next type of bacteria.

Thermophilic bacteria

These are the powerhouses of the bacteria world; working fast, in a temperature range of 104°F to 170°F, but some will also still thrive past the boiling point of water! These are the guys that can cause a compost pile to spontaneously combust if the pile is too high or too dry.

These three groups join forces to turn our trash into rich humus capable of sustaining plant life; but they are also assisted by other organisms such as fungi, various insects and worms (see my article on vermicomposting).

Quick composting tips

By providing the best conditions possible, the composting process can be made to happen much faster than it does in normal natural conditions. Wheras everything just chucked in a pile may take a year or two to break down; intensive composting can be completed in just a couple of months.

Here are some simple things you can do for more effective composting.

- It's important to get the right mix of carbon and nitrogen materials in a compost heap. The carbon based stuff is mainly dry; things like newspaper, straw and dry cuttings. The items rich in nitrogen will mostly be wet - vegetable scraps and lawn clippings. Ideal conditions are said to be 1 part wet/green to 25 parts dry/brown. You don't have to be this fussy, but an overly dry compost heap will take ages to break down (been there) and one too wet will start to smell (been there too). It does take a bit of practice and a watchful eye.

- Care needs to be taken when adding lawn clippings. These are usually very moist and rich in nitrogen. As they are so wet, they'll clump together, dispelling the oxygen needed by the aerobic bacteria and the pile will get quite smelly - a strong ammonia type whiff due to anaerobic decomposition. It's best to mix clippings in thoroughly with the pile, or spread the lawn clippings out for a few days to dry a little and then add them.

- Select a well drained area to establish your pile; preferably over soil so that worms can access it. The compost pile should be in a sunny position in colder climates or a shady area in warm climates

- A three sided pen will help to keep your pile tidy. This can be made from star droppers and strong mesh or pallets nailed together

- To speed up composting, break down materials into smaller pieces or shred; and turn the pile regularly

- The pile should always be warm or hot - if you dig a small hole into the pile and put your hand near it, you should feel it being warmer than the air temperature. If it's cold, you need to add more green stuff.

- The pile should always be moist, but not dripping. If it's dry, spray water on the pile and then work it through.

If you're thinking of getting into composting in a big way; there's all sorts of tools available such as bins set in frames with a handle for turning. A multiple bin/pile system is also useful so you can stop with one pile at a certain point and let that totally decompose while adding fresh stuff to a new pile.

Things you can add to compost piles

Newspaper, cardboard, eggshells, vegetable scraps, law clippings, cuttings, hair, manure from herbivores, leaves, sawdust, coffee grounds and filters, tea leaves - basically any plant material that that's not too thick.

Things to avoid

Dog and cat droppings, fish, meat and dairy products, weeds, grease and oil. The reason for avoiding most of these is that there is a disease risk and rodents and other animals may be attracted. I have composted dog droppings before, but basically in a bin of their own with lawn clippings. It doesn't smell all that good during the early stages :). If you do compost pet droppings, don't apply the resulting compost to a veggie garden; just to be safe.

This has just been a primer on the topic of composting and I'm certainly no expert. For some people, composting is an absolute passion, so there's a stack of information around the web about various approaches and equipment.

If you have any handy composting tips, please add them below!


 
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Michael Bloch
Green Living Tips.com
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Comments
  • Comment #1 (Posted by shanalulu)

    Kleenex! I have pretty severe allergies -- too much so to use handkerchiefs, so I buy recycled tissues. I used to get so annoyed at the volume of tissues I was discarding, then realized that they could easily be added to the compost pile. Ditto that for paper towels, scraps of paper too small to recycle, toilet paper roll tubes -- lots of bathroom trash doesn't need to actually be trashed. The vacuum cleaner bag gets emptied into the pile, too, along with dog hair from their brushes and my lint brush. Dryer lint is compostable, especially if you favor natural fibers, though synthetics won't hurt.
     
  • Comment #2 (Posted by Michael - Green Living Tips)

    Thanks for your contribution shanalulu :)
     
  • Comment #3 (Posted by kat)

    I purchased a Bokashi bucket after seeing it on a show out of New Zealand called "Wasted." It sits under the sink and all food scraps and paper go into it. The bokashi powder is sprinkled on any new additions and after a few weeks, we bury it out in the yard. IT'S GREAT for just the two of us.
     
  • Comment #4 (Posted by Michael - Green Living Tips)

    Hi Kat, thanks for mentioning the Bokashi bucket - I've never seen them before; looks like a great system!
     
  • Comment #5 (Posted by Susan)

    I have read different theories about whether composting citrus (peel and/or fruit) is a good idea. Some say it's too acidic and kills the micro-organisms and some say it's just like any other kitchen waste. What's the real answer?
     
  • Comment #6 (Posted by John)

    Can compost be used as a form of thermal energy..like geothermal is used to heat homes? Or can the gases released from compost be captured and use as fuel?
     
  • Comment #7 (Posted by Amanda)

    Paper is always mentioned as a compostable item, but isn't computer paper and most other paper usually bleached and not entirely organic? And what about the ink in newspaper? Also, lint seems to be a highly debated material. i wouldn't put clothing into the compost so how could lint be ok?
     
  • Comment #8 (Posted by Don)

    I save newspapers for using under my mulch to kill weeds, the ink is non-toxic. I put three pair of Levi's in my compost heap three months ago and they are already composted except for the thread that is easy to remove after the cotton melts away. Solder fly larvae are great for breaking down pet droppings. I urinate in my heap to get it hot when it cools down. Avoid cedar because it has a natural antibacterial in the sap. I use a 39oz plastic coffee container to store kitchen scraps in.
     
  • Comment #9 (Posted by Michael - Green Living Tips)

    Susan, I think it's just a case of everything in moderation. As citrus is acidic, too much of it could upset the balance, but I can't see the citrus waste from an average family being too much of a problem if other waste is being composted too.

    John, yes, but you'd need a lot of compost to do so - landfills are now being tapped for methane throughout the world. I think too that a healthy compost heap doesn't give off a lot of methane; it's when it's unhealthy (not enough oxygen and/or too damp) that this happens.

    Amanda, a lot of inks are soy based these days, but you have a good point - it's hard to tell what is and what isn't.

    Don, thanks for your composting contribution! :)
     
  • Comment #10 (Posted by patrick)

    um im have some trouble composting can you help me it's been since the fifth of july i had my compost it still hasent produced dirt im starting to think its a complete failure. its really stinky wet and its got a ton of bugs so many evey time i open it it has lizards in it please help!!!


     
  • Comment #11 (Posted by Chris Holt)

    I have a couple of 3x3foot compost bins, I find that adding layers of composted material from one to the second one as I build it with fresh material does accelerate the performance. No need for additives.

     
  • Comment #12 (Posted by patty v)

    can I compost cooked vegetables? Like from a stock starter or left over steamed vegetables?
     
  • Comment #13 (Posted by Zinco)

    Don't know if this discussion is still active as the original article is almost a year ago. Regarding some of the issues re citrus, wood ash, bugs etc, I keep four composters going to handle our compostables. Our main one handles everything non-meat/dairy/fish that comes from the kitchen, plus leaves. Meats etc are more likely to attract vermin. At first I was warned about citrus fruits, peels, etc taking too long to break down, but that has proven to be nonsense - no problem at all. Yes, there are lots of bugs in the compost. The ones in the soil help break everything down, and those that fly out when you open it are mostly fruitflies. Annoying, but that's it. I find they are almost eliminated if I add some dried leaves to cover the surface after adding kitchen waste. (I keep a bag of last year's mulched leaves nearby to add in by the handful each time.) Two others handle mostly yard waste: crabapples, clippings if the lawn got too tall, crabapples, leaves, crabapples, and more crabapples (after making great crabapple butter of course)!

    My fourth composter is for winter. I live in a cold climate, lots of snow. It is just a plastic garbage can with lots of holes drilled in it and a small flap created with three cuts near the bottom. I keep it just outside a side door and use it when it gets too cold. Of course nothing much happens in it until spring, when it begins to heat itself up. Then I just wheel it away from the back door, roll it over a few times, mix it up as best I can with some additional leaves, and leave it to give me some great soil! By next fall/winter it is ready to go again.
    As for wood ash, a layer no more than an inch deep (per composter) then mixed in seems to work well.
     
  • Comment #14 (Posted by Ken)

    Beer stimulates the activity in the compost pile. The yeasts and enzymes help. I add the half empties people leave. Soda is great but it can't be the sugar free kind. Both beverages are acidic. The acidity helps balance out the high pH of wood ash.
     
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